To Hells and Back

In a few months, Zack and I will be moving back to the States, and I still have a few places on my "to see" list. In an effort to see some of those places, I signed up for a trip to Beppu with MWR for last weekend. It was my first trip with Ela, and as such, it was super ambitious. The bus left at 6:45 in the morning and didn't get back until 9:45 according to the schedule. It probably would have been smarter to start with something shorter, but this was the only Beppu trip before we leave, and I knew I wouldn't do it alone, so I packed double what I really thought I would need in the diaper bag and figured we'd survive.

Ela did really really really well. As if she knew exactly what she should do, she slept the full 3 hour ride from Sasebo to Beppu. When we arrived there, she woke up and was ready to smile and charm everyone on the tour. Our first stop was the Umitamago Aquarium. Umi means Ocean. Tamago means Egg. This aquarium is much bigger than the one in Sasebo and was very nice, too. We arrived just on time to catch a show featuring a walrus doing some tricks including "conversing" with it's trainer, rolling over, balancing treats on its nose, and so on. It was quite cute. Then we wandered through the various regions, checking out fish of all shapes and sizes, as well as the dolphins, seals, and otters featured.

When we were done checking out the aquarium, I had a nice Japanese lunch at the food court there. Ela had some lunch, too. Mostly she had milk, but she also indulged in a little bit of rice from my meal. She tried to talk me into giving her some of the other things on the plate, but to no avail...

Next on the agenda was Monkey Mountain. This is a mountain near the town where 1200-1600 wild monkies live. They apparently were taking over the town before they were enclosed on this mountain, and now they make a lovely tourist attraction. The experience was a strange combination of adorable and unnerving. There were guards standing at the gates checking to make sure that no one had any plastic bags or bottles out (the monkies think there's food in there and will steal them). They advise against opening any backpacks, either, while you're on the mountain, and also tell tourists not to make eye contact with the monkies, as this is a sign of aggression. I intended to make Ela wear her sunglasses, just to be on the safe side, but she has learned to take them off, so that didn't work. Rather than walking up a steep path carrying a 20lb baby, I took a monorail train to the top, where I was greeted by lots and lots of monkies.

We had a look at them all, then took the train back down to the bottom again. Ela was completely uninterested in the monkies, but a nice couple from our tour were happy to make faces at her, and that was enough to keep her happy for this portion of the tour.

Next on the agenda was a whirlwind tour of the various hotsprings in the Beppu area. Those springs are called "hells" in Japanese, hence the title of this post. Each one had some gimmic, invented or natural, to encourage tourists to come see it. We visited eight. First up was the "blood hell" which is naturally red.

Then the "spout hell," which is a gyser that goes off every 45-60 minutes for 6-10 minutes at a time.

After that we saw the "ocean hell" which is a lovely shade of blue. Then there was "mountain hell", so named for the mountain of silt that had formed around it, "monk hell" named for the bubbles in it that look like the bald top of a buddist monk's head, and "oven hell" which has mud build up that looks like little old-fashioned Japanese clay ovens. One of the hells had several exotic animals living near it (presumably to display the heat) and another was it's own little crocodile farm (using the hot water from the spring to keep them warm). At several you could buy hard-boiled eggs, sweet potatoes, or corn that had been cooked in the steam from the springs.


Others had foot spas where you could soak your feet in water that originated in the springs but had been cooled down to a better temperature.

We had a lot of fun walking from spring to spring, chatting with people (I'm a little starved for adult interaction, apparently) and enjoying the various sights, but Ela was hot, tired and hungry by the time we got back on the bus and just about ready to throw a tantrum. She ate immediately, then slept until about half an hour before we were scheduled for dinner, at which point she blew out a diaper in her car seat and began to fuss about having to sit in it. Luckily the Japanese are a bit lax on the car seat laws, and we were actually 10 minutes from dinner, running a bit early. So I cleaned her up a bit to calm her down, then pulled her out of the seat to keep her from driving anyone nuts with crying. At dinner, I changed her and cleaned out the seat, then got some things from a bakery to eat in the bus. The rest of the ride home was uneventful.

So the trip was a great success, and I'm planning to sign up for a few more before we leave Japan. This also is good considering the looooong trip home we'll have in a few months. A little practice is just what we need.